Thursday, January 9, 2014

International Destination: Grenoble, France

To start off the New Year, a new blog post from our first international trip outside of Switzerland:  Grenoble, France!  Since we went for a weekend, there will be many pictures!


We took the train all the way to Geneva!  (2 hour 40 minute trip).  When we passed Biel, the announcers switched from German to French.
  
We went through very lax "border control" to get on the French train to Chambery. (An hour and twenty minute trip) 


This train should typically take us all the way to Grenoble, but due to track work, we had to get off at Chambery, and transfer to a bus to take us the rest of the way to Grenoble.


Unfortunately, due to an accident, the train terminated a stop earlier at Aix-les-Bains, so we took a bus to Chambery. (another 30 minutes)  Once we arrived at Chambery, we took ANOTHER bus to Grenoble. (About an hour)


Finally!  We arrived at Grenoble's train station.  All track work has recently been completed between Geneva and Grenoble, and the direct line has been restored (and only takes two hours).

We were able to meet Rob, drop our belongings off at our hotel, and explore Grenoble.


Our wonderful hosts!


Beautiful architecture all over the city.


The Fountain of the three orders.  Inaugurated in 1897 by then French president Felix Fauré to commemorate the pre-revolutionary events of June 1788, which took place in Grenoble.


The Lion and Serpent Fountain (Le serpent et le dragon).  The Dragon is represented by the carved limestone Lion, which symbolizes the torrential Drac river.  The bronze serpent symbolizes the winding Isère river.  In the past, Grenoble often suffered from floods due to the two rivers clashing, represented in the fighting.


This is the Isère river with the French Alps in the background.


Chartreuse, a French liqueur made by Monks in Grenoble since 1737.  This green beverage is a distilled alcohol aged with 130 herbs, plants and flowers.  Very strong and grassy flavors.  It was okay...


No night would be complete without dessert, Macarons!

The next day, we wanted to explore the area and were pleasantly surprised to find the local farmer's market open.


Grenoble's Indoor Food Market!



With plenty of outdoor vendors, too!


So many cheeses to choose from!


And the breads!  Notice the Swiss Ms nervously handling her money as she waits to interact with the vendor to buy some bread...


Success!  Her high school French saved the day (or breakfast).


Rows of colorful and fragrant fruit and vegetables!


Local patisserie with beautiful creations.


I wanted to order everything.


We settled on a savory anchovy and sundried tomato tart.

Yum!


And to finish off, a cup of coffee to fortify us for the journey up to the Bastille.

Next up, Grenoble's Bastille!


The Bastille from below!  Situated very high to defend against invaders.


Up close and personal.


Making our way up the fortress, and watching for invading armies.


Clear blue skies with the Alps in the background.

Our ride down.


These tiny pods were hot little greenhouses in the heat of summer. 

The Gondola carried us swiftly back to the base in less than ten minutes!

To refuel after the climb...



A smoked salmon, salad, and potatoes.


Delicious salads.


A perfect meal.

During our stay in Grenoble, it was a sweltering 95 to 97 degrees Fahrenheit (35 to 36 Celsius).  With the sun out in full force by afternoon, we decided to visit a couple museums.  Our favorite was Musée Archéologique Grenoble-Saint Laurent, which was free and provided an audio-guide in English.



The museum itself is an old church, which was carefully excavated and among the first to be classified as a historic monument by France.


The twelfth century church sits atop a Christian burial site, dating back as far as the 4th century.


Incredibly well-preserved, much of the original detail remains intact.

We ran into this fun little sign in Grenoble:  a happy face if you're going under the speed limit, and a frowny face if you're going over the speed limit.  (Incidentally, as I was taking the picture, the car going past me decelerated to achieve smiley status)

And now, our grandiose prix fixe dinner!



We were warned by our hosts that French dinners typically are three hours long.


Three hour dinner?  Bring it on!


Provençale fried snails (my first time trying snails!)


Murçon (sausage) with ravioles of Royans (filled with cheese and herbs)


Chicken liver salad with walnuts.


The chef's suggestion (I don't remember what fish it was, but it was similar to swordfish)


Pork and spinach terrine was FANTASTIC.


Skate wing fillet, with capers, lemon and croutons.


Chicken filet with blue cheese.


Lemon meringue pie. Incidentally, this was not on the prix fixe menu, but the Swiss Ms sweet talked her way into getting it.


Walnut pie with caramel and ice cream.


More ice cream.
  
CHOCOLATE PROFITEROLES.


By this point, I am so full, but I cannot stop eating.

And yes, the meal took three hours, and it was delicious.



Seems like many citizens of Grenoble had a filling night as well.

Before our bus/French train/Swiss train combo left to take us back to Zurich, we took the chance to quickly visit a few more places.  First stop, Saint Joseph's Basilique.

A massive cathedral.

With an impressive organ.

We visited Parc Paul Mistral, an urban park which became an Olympic site when Grenoble hosted the Olympic Winter Games in 1968.

One last stop to the farmer's market before we hit the road!

Fresh white peaches, chocolate croissants, and delicious blueberry and blueberry/orange tarts for the 6+ hour journey home!

Thanks for reading until the end!


Happy New Year!

-Herr Cervelat


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