Saturday, March 28, 2015

International Destination: Istanbul (Part 1)

After a very long (and busy) hiatus, we are reviving the blog with one of our favorite trips earlier this year, Istanbul! (January 2015)

Day 1:  Turkish Airlines, Aya Sofya and the Grand Bazaar
To start off, instead of choosing Swiss International Air Lines, we opted for Turkish Airlines, which was a fantastic experience.

Despite only three hours in-flight, we were served a full breakfast!  Turkey and and Kasar cheese toast with Turkish style spinach pastry, fresh bread and cherry juice.  This Swiss Ms got freshly squeezed orange juice, which was great.

Once we arrived in Istanbul, customs and border control were straight-forward, since we had bought our visas online ahead of time (recommended).

Next up was navigating the public transportation.

The tokens looked and felt like plastic play money!

It took approximately an hour to get into the city from the airport.  We first took the metro line to the stop Zeytinburnu, then transferred to a tram to Istanbul's Old City.  We were staying around the Blue Mosque, so we got off at Sultanahmet.  We quickly checked into our Hotel and promptly set off to our first destination, Hagia Sophia!

Hagia Sophia (Holy Wisdom) or Aya Sofya:
This beautiful building was built by the Byzantine Empire in the 6th century A.D. originally as a cathedral and later converted to a mosque in 1453 when Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Empire.  Now the great domed building is a museum.

An architectural marvel for its time, it remains an impressive structure today.

Gold tiles with Christian mosaics decorate the interior of the palace and are remnants of the Byzantine Empire.

More lustrous tiling.

Giant nave interior.

Unlike most European cathedrals, which feature human figures, mosques like this one showcase intricate shapes and calligraphy, like the giant medallions (25 feet in diameter!) pictured above.

Originally built to face Jerusalem, when the Ottomons converted the church to a mosque, they changed the focal point slightly off center to face Mecca.

An incredible amount of detail on the great dome

While we were at Aya Sofya, we heard the Muslim call to prayer for the first time.  Instead of bell towers, mosques have minarets.  Years ago, the prayer leader would climb to the top of a tall slender tower and call the faithful to worship.  Today, modern speakers placed at the top of the minarets project the prayer leader's voice from below.

The call echoed all throughout Istanbul and it was an unforgettable experience.  Pictured above are the minarets on the Blue Mosque, where we visited later (Part 2).

Next up, we explored the bustling Grand Bazaar.

Grand Bazaar:

One of the largest and oldest markets in the world, this enormous building houses sixty-one covered streets and over 3,000 shops.

Beautifully decorated ceilings and brightly lit interior.

Bargaining like it's 1499.

Relaxing with a nice cup of freshly pressed apple tea.  Note: fake apple tea will come in powdered form.

After an exhausting day, dinner! (at Sultanahmet Koftecisi)

A delicious bowl of lentil soup, bean salad and of course, lamb shish kebap.

We also had to buy some bottled water before heading home, since tap water is not entirely safe for visitors to Istanbul.  While we were out, we ran into some cute friends.

Cats.  Everywhere.  Really, they were even inside Aya Sofya.

Day 2:  Turkish Breakfast and Topkapi Palace
Many of the hotels in Istanbul pride themselves on providing a delicious breakfast, and our hotel was no exception.

A full breakfast buffet on the top floor of the hotel.

With an assortment of juices and dried fruits.

Fortified with a hearty, Turkish breakfast, we spent the entire day at Topkapi Palace.

Topkapi Palace:
This was the primary residence of the Ottomon sultans for about 400 years and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Gate of Salutation, after we had already passed through the Imperial Gate and First Courtyard.

We first visited the Palace kitchens and saw the beautiful porcelain and celadon collection, but pictures were not allowed.

The Imperial Council (Kubbealtı), is where Ottomon officials held meetings.

Ornately decorated porch of the Imperial Divan.

Interior of the council room.

And its decorative ceiling.

There was also the Imperial Treasury to see the types of advanced weaponry the Ottomans utilized, but again, photos were not allowed.

The Gate of Felicity, and the entrance to the Third Courtyard (yes, this Palace is MASSIVE).

Entrance to the Sultan's audience chamber.

The Sultan would sit under the canopy and personally receive foreign ambassadors, viziers and officials.

The Third Courtyard also had the popular Conquerer's Pavilion/Kiosk, which houses the Imperial Treasury that contains a vast collection of royal jewelry and heirlooms of historic importance.  Again, pictures are not allowed (although we saw some people sneak some pictures in).

Next, we walked into the Fourth Courtyard, the innermost private quarters for the sultan and his family.

View of the Bosphorus Strait from the Fourth Courtyard.

Lunch break!  Doner kebab, lentil soup and salep drink!  Salep is a delicious creamy beverage flavored with orchid.

GRAPHENE!  The Ottoman's should get the Physics Nobel Prize posthumously.

The entrance to the Circumcision Room, tiled with the typical Turkish turquoise blue.

Inside the Circumcision Room.

The Baghdad Kiosk.

Over the Top Ottomon Opulence.

Fine mother-of-pearl, tortoise-shell decorated cupboards and window panels.

Pool on Marble Terrace.

One of the Sultans adored Tulips and situated the Terrace Kiosk the middle of a Tulip Garden.  (Sadly, there were no flowers in January).

We backtracked to the Third Courtyard and visited the Imperial Harem, which were the Sultan's private apartments were located.  The harem was also home to the sultan's mother (Valide Sultan) and his many wives, concubines, children and servants.

The Imperial Hall with the throne of the sultan.

Richly decorated on every surface.

More Turquoise.

Clearly the 1%.

Or the 0.1%.

The Courtyard of the Favorites.

After Topkapi Palace, we explored the ancient Hippodrome.  The Byzantine Empire greatly enjoyed chariot races and had built a large rectangular arena in the middle of the city to house up to 100,000 spectators.  Now it is a long promenade with some relics remaining.

The Obelisk of Thutmose III stands tall in the middle of where the former Hippodrome race track used to be.  It was brought into Istanbul from Egypt in 390 A.D. and is in surprisingly good condition, considering it is nearly 3500 years old.  It is also only the top third of the Obelisk!

The Tripod of Plataea was originally three intertwining snakes, representing the victory of the Greeks over the Persians in 5th century B.C.  It was moved from the Temple of Apollo to the Hippodrome, but the heads were removed.  Parts of the head were recovered and are now housed in the Istanbul Archaeology Museum.

Quick Turkish Coffee break at Fes Cafe with some Turkish delight.  For those who haven't had Turkish coffee, the coffee grounds are still in the cup because it is unfiltered, giving it a thick consistency.

Dinner of lamb kebab, oven roasted vegetables, ovenfresh bread and pide (a flatbread topped with cheese and toppings) at Buhara 93.

Next up, part 2 of our trip to Istanbul.

Happy Reading!

Best,
Herr Cervelat