Sechseläuten - Ringing of the six'o clock Bell

The traditional Swiss holiday to celebrate the coming of Spring in Zurich is called Sechseläuten and occurs on the third Monday of every April.  On that day, everyone who works in the Canton of Zurich has a half day (if you work in a different canton you're out of luck).  Crowds assemble near Bellevueplatz down by Lake Zurich, with tall cans of beer and grilled bratwurst (and loads of other street food!).  The weather was a fantastic 26 degrees Celsius (79 Fahrenheit), the sun was out and everybody was ready for Spring to start.

It was crowded, to say the least.

During the day, there is the parade of the 26 Zunfte (guilds - powerful trade groups that have now become private clubs) with over 3000 members!  The guilds limit participation in the parade to its members, all men.  Women are only there as honorary guests, and it reflects Switzerland's still male-dominated society.  Despite Switzerland's fairly liberal stance on politics, women's rights have come slowly.  Women couldn't vote in federal elections until 1971 (and even as late as 1990 at the cantonal level) and only won statutory paid maternity leave in 2005.  

  Ladies represent...clearly this is not a guild.

This is a guild...Not a single woman.

The parade goes through Zurich's Old Town, past the Rathaus (townhall) and finally to the main attraction - the Böögg, a towering wooden snowman, filled with firecrackers, an effigy of Winter.  The burning of this Böögg is supposed to symbolize the changing of the seasons.  The time it takes for the firecrackers inside the Böögg to go off determines how nice summer will be.  Historically, the burning time ranges between 5 minutes (great summer) to as long 40 minutes (terrible summer).

Since I'm a postdoc, we don't really get half-days, so I missed the parades (actually, I found out about them afterwards), but we did go down a little before 6PM to see the burning of the Böögg.  As I said, the area around Bellevueplatz was packed!  Luckily, we still managed to get a great view of the burning!

The Böögg!  We thought he'd look like a traditional 3 stacked sphere snowman.  Instead he resembled the Michelin Man.

The Böögg was putting up quite the fight (and smoke!).  Swiss Ms:  This feels like something that I shouldn't watch.

Finally!  The Böögg catches on fire.  

We even managed to get video footage of this burning!

Children start crying.  It's too much.  Swiss Ms: I don't blame them, this is a little graphic.

Boom!  Kapow!

It took the fated snowman 35 minutes to explode (on the Böögg-scale I think that means the summer will be fairly horrible in Zurich).

This was followed by some delicious sausage down by Lake Zurich.  

My Kalbswurst (veal) bratwurst.  Comes with mustard and bread!  Very delicious!  Surprisingly mild flavor and soft texture.

The Schweinefleisch (pork) bratwurst.  The Swiss Ms was not impressed.  Saltier and tougher than the Kalbswurst (similar to the Cervelat we had previously).

Beautiful views by Lake Zurich.

We hope the Böögg's prediction is wrong!

Not a bad way to start Spring!

-Sir Cervelat

Frolicking with the Bears at Bern

We finally had a nice day!  Therefore, we decided to go to the city of Bern, the capital of Switzerland.

Bern's coat of arms, symbolizing their mascot, the bear!

We took the the train to Zurich HB and, then took a special express IC to Bern with no stops.  Even though Bern is farther away than St. Gallen (114km vs 75 km), the IC to Bern is much faster.  If we continued on the IC it would take us across the country to Lausanne and Geneva (which we intend on visiting in the near future!) 

This is a special "Family car" on the trains with slides and entertainment for the little ones.  The Swiss think of everything!

When we arrived at Bern, we saw that the beautiful weather from Thalwil and Zurich had followed us.  Looks like Spring is finally starting!

At Bern's RailCity on a beautiful Saturday.

Arc covering the bus/tram stop in front of the Bern station.

Our first stop was the Kleine Schanze (translate to "Small Hill"), a beautiful park nearby Bern HB.  This park also featured its own cog-railway, called a Drahtseilbahn, that would take you up and down the steep slopes of Bern.  However, unlike Zurich and Lucerne, there are no towering Alps.  Just a beautiful river.

The Aar (a tributary of the High Rhine) is the longest river that begins and ends entirely in Switzerland.  (This photo was taken from Barenpark.)

ANOTHER POLYBAHN!  This one lives in modern glass and metal at the top of the hill rather than a mini-chalet like the one in Zurich.

Right on the perimeter of the park, we explored a cathedral and were not disappointed.  We viewed some absolutely stunning stain-glass windows.

Cathedral off the Klein Schanze.

Organ music filled the air!

These windows were everywhere!

We then wandered east from Kleine Schanze toward the "Old City" of Bern.  On the way, we passed by Bern's Parliament, several streets of shops on Marktgasse (market street) and a great deal of construction.  A labmate born and raised in Bern told me that a majority of Bern's buildings are made out of sandstone, and as a result, need constant maintenance.  

Farmer's market in front of the Federal Palace of Switzerland (Parliament)

Once we arrived at the Old City of Berne (a UNESCO World Heritage site), we were greeted by its cobblestone streets, 15th-century arcades and 16th-century fountains, which retain much of their original medieval character.  In fact, we had lunch right on Gerechtigkeitsgasse, one of the main streets.

Historic Old City of Bern.

The medieval town with its cobbled streets.

A perfect day to sit outside on the streets of Bern.

We've been finding that Italian food is very popular in Switzerland.  Due to my love of pizza, I find myself getting it very often.  Here, we have a prosciutto and champignon (mushroom in French).  Many food names are a mix of German, French and Italian.

Vegetable Lasagna with a white sauce, cooked in a similar manner to the Älplermagronen.  Swiss Ms: Holy moly that's a lot of cheese!  

We then visited the prime attraction, Bärenpark Bern!  For the past few hundred year, the bears were housed in various bear pits. Now, the bears dwell in a large natural enclosure.  There is the father bear, Björk (Swedish for birch) who is from Denmark, the mother bear Finn from Finland, and their twin daughters, Ursina and Berna.  Since it was spring, the bears were awake from their long winter's slumber and were frolicking around, as well as looking for food to eat (which the keepers hid!).

Original bear pit that was too small, especially for four bears.

Looking for the food that the keepers hid!

Playing in the water.

Seems a little aggressive to us, but they're bears.

We really could have watched the bears all day, but there was much more of Bern to see.  So we made our way to Bern Minster (German: Berner Münster), a gothic cathedral that is the tallest in Switzerland.  We were not allowed to take any pictures inside, but if you google or search for it on wikipedia, you can see how beautiful it is inside.  There were many stunning stained glass windows, and one of my favorites was the "Dance of Death".  

The towering Berner Münster.  Incidentally, the top is also under construction.

There are also eleven 16th-century fountains all over Bern that depict historic and folkloric characters, as well as the Zytglogge (clock tower) with revolving figures and chimes.

The clock tower supposedly helped Albert Einstein hone his theory of relativity.  While Einstein was travelling on the tram, he thought that if the tram were going at the speed of light, the clock tower time would remain constant, while his clock (on the tram) would continue to tick, proving that time was relative.

The most famous fountain, Kindlifresserbrunnen (Ogre Fountain) that lies in Kornhausplatz.  This fountain depicts an ogre snacking on children!

Since it was such a nice day, we had a great deal of trouble finding outdoor cafe space.  We finally found some space back at an outdoor cafe at Kleine Schanze, whilst sipping our espresso and coffee.

The Swiss Ms. with her cafe.

With my espresso.

Nothing like a trip to Bern to start off Spring!

Thanks for reading!  Our thoughts have been with our friends and family back home this week.

-Sir Cervelat

Polybahn, Finishing up Toni and the tales of a HausFrau

Since we currently live in Thalwil and I work at ETH in Zurich, I have to take multiple modes of transportation to get to work.  As we've already gushed about, the Swiss transportation makes this a remarkably painless and fun task.  To get into Zurich, I normally take the IR (think commuter rail, longer distances and faster) or the SB (think more local, shorter distances and frequent stops).  Once at Zurich HB, I have three choices to getting to campus.  One is to walk, which would take about half an hour and up quite a steep hill.  Second is to take a tram, which is a short 5 minute ride.  However, the third is unique to Switzerland and is certainly our favorite mode of transportation - the Polybahn!

What is the Polybahn, you ask?  It's basically the most fun way to get to campus.  It's a funicular, a cliff railway, that is completely automated and takes mere minutes to scale the steep slope to ETH.  But enough talking, I bet you want to see pictures!

Fun awaits!

Here it is!  Get excited!

Yes.  I take this every day.  Twice.

Second car coming down.  Wee!

At the top, Polybahn lives in its own mini-chalet.

While the polybahn has been enjoyable, the commute from Thalwil to ETH still takes quite some time (ranging from 20 to 40 minutes, depending on if I make the connections).  We had the option of staying in ETH campus dorms, but a post-doc in my group, Kevin, offered us much more affordable housing in Thalwil and has been a wonderful guide, helping us adjust to Swiss life and culture.  

We came to learn that obtaining housing is exceedingly difficult in Switzerland, and that we were at a severe disadvantage because we were not Swiss Citizens.  In addition, it took us quite a long time to get our resident permit, which is essential to apply for housing.  We actually just got our resident permits this week.  We had to first register at the Thalwil Gemeinde (municipality) with the following documents:

Passport photo (NO SMILING)

Official Employment Contract from ETH proving I am a postdoktorand

Both of our VISA forms

Passports

Money - Lots of it

Housing Documentation - Proof we live in Thalwil

Setting up an appointment at Oerlikon's Migration office to get our biometrics taken (fingerprints and photos)

Since we were staying with Kevin, we needed an additional form that said we had permission to live in Thalwil.  I can imagine that if Kevin's housing or ETH campus dorms weren't available to us, getting into Switzerland would have been quite troublesome.  To get housing, we need a residence permit, but to get the residence permit, we need to show we have proof of housing (what?!?!).  

This made us all the more appreciative of the foreign students and immigrants who likely navigate a sea of red tape when arriving in the US.  Seriously, kudos.

I also recall many people asking what my wife would be doing in Switzerland and that we'd play it by ear.  Well, I'm happy to say that she is an absolute superstar and got a year-long nutrition education research fellowship that allows her to work remotely while she is in Switzerland!  She'll even occasionally travel to the States to present her work.  This resulted in quite the humorous exchange at the Thalwil Gemeinde:

Gemeinde Official:  Do you have a job in Switzerland?

Swiss Ms:  No, but I have job in the States.

Gemeinde Official:  So you are a housewife.

Swiss Ms:  No, maybe I wasn't clear.  I will be doing work here in Switzerland for a job based in the US.  

Gemeinde Official:  But not employed in Switzerland?

Swiss Ms:  Yes...

Gemeinde Official:  Then in Switzerland, you are a housewife.

The form listed her as a "HausFrau" (housewife).  

We were able to open a bank account with the temporary Gemeinde form, but not much else.    We had to wait until our appointment at Oerlikon's Migration Department to get our biometrics taken to apply for apartments, or sign up for cell phones.  Finally, we received our residence permits in the mail this week!  Both the Postdoktorand and HausFrau are finally on the Swiss grid.

Whew!  That was a lot of text!  Sorry about that!  We didn't want to put pictures of our official documents online.

Toni Jogurt Update:

We finished the Tonis!  There weren't that many flavors, but we tried the last three from Coop.

Himbeere (Raspberry) Toni.  It was ok.

Erdbeere (Strawberry) Toni.  Very good!

Mocha Toni.  Really good.

To wrap up this post, we have both my and Swiss Ms' rankings of the Tonis we have tried.  

Sir Cervelat's Toni Rankings

1)  Blood Orange 

2)  Strawberry 

3)  Mocha

4)  Stracciatella

5)  Chocolate

6)  Raspberry

7)  Nougat

Swiss Ms' Toni Rankings:

1)  Chocolate 

2)  Mocha 

3)  Blood Orange 

4)  Strawberry

5)  Raspberry

6)  Nougat

7)  Stracciatella <--- I disagree with this.

Thanks for reading!

-Sir Cervelat

For the love of food and the people who eat it

Dear Friends,

Before arriving in the land of supremely local food, where fitness is the national pastime, and moderate chocolate obsession is acceptable, I had the opportunity to work for one of the most prominent health and childhood nutrition non-profits in the country.  In my professional life, I addressed issues of hunger, health, and food access.  I met children who didn't know that potatoes grow underground, adults who cherished using their fresh food vouchers at the farmers' market, and families who struggled to put food on the table.  These are issues I care deeply about, and once a year I ask that you care about them, too.

Last year, David and I hosted two Korean-themed (plus chocolate cake) benefit dinners and we were astounded and humbled by your generosity.  So, uh, we can't do that this year.  So this year, I present to you two options on both sides of the energy balance equation:

Option 1: Calories Out- Support the Walk Against Hunger this Saturday!

It may not be 80 degrees this Saturday, but the weather looks great for a 5K run or walk!  This is one of my favorite events and while I couldn't attend last year (I was leading cooking in the classroom training for preschool teachers), this event is not to be missed.

To learn more, go here: http://www.hungercoalition.org/hungerwalk

To make a donation, go here: https://secure.hungercoalition.org/page/outreach/view/walk2013_thefoodtrust/thefoodtrust


Option 2: Calories In- Attend the Pancake Breakfast!  (Philly Peeps)

We may not be able to feed you, but Mitch and Jennifer Prensky of Supper restaurant can!  (Don't act too disappointed.)  Dine on delicious pancakes, local fruit, and whipped cream, Saturday, April 27th under the Headhouse Shambles.  Save $5 on pre-sale tickets before April 15th and kids under 5 eat free!  All proceeds benefit The Food Trust's work to bring healthy, affordable food to communities like yours.

To learn more and purchase tickets, go here: http://thefoodtrust.ticketleap.com/the-food-trust-pancake-breakfast/

Every little bit counts.  Thank you for your support.

In good health,
The Swiss Ms  

   

The Abbey at St. Gallen

This weekend, we found ourselves going to the city of Saint Gallen (say: Sankt Gahlen).  Saint Gallen is also the "capital" of its eponymous canton. In classic SAT analogy format= States: USA : : Cantons: Switzerland   Switzerland currently has 26 cantons, and although we live in Thalwil (just outside of Zurich City), we are still part of the Zurich Canton.

This is where we're headed for today's adventures!

As usual, we made our way on the ever-dependable Swiss public transportation.  We first left Thalwil on the IR (Inter-Regio), then hopped onto a connecting line at Zurich HB to St. Gallen.  We took the IC (Inter-City) there and took the ICN (InterCity Neigezug) back.  These trains had restaurants inside!  Since the trip to St. Gallen is only a 90 minute journey, we decided to save the restaurant experience for a longer trip (such as to Italy or Paris!)

The restaurant car! (on the ICN)

Look how immaculate that restaurant is (on the IC).

Admiring the lush Swiss countryside.

We have arrived in St. Gallen.

After arriving at St. Gallen, we walked to the Old Town around the Abbey at St. Gallen, just a five minutes east of the train station.  As we walked around, we were struck by some of the interesting architecture of the old houses.  St. Gallen is known for its exposed timber buildings and oriel windows.  The variety was simply stunning. 

This one appears to have three different coat of arms.

The intricate woodwork on this window is overshadowed by the painting on the wall.

That's it, I want all my windows to look this nice.

As many of you know, the two of us really like trying new foods, especially those local to the region.  When is comes to Switzerland, that means bratwurst and sausages.  In St. Gallen we visited Metzgerei Gemperli, a butcher cum bratwurst stand.  Of course, the bratwurst was one of the most affordable meals we've had in Switzerland (at only 6.50 CHF).  No wonder the Swiss love their wurst! 

St. Gallen's signature "Olma bratwurst mit Bürli."  (Veal sausage with roll).

While mustard is commonly available, the locals NEVER use it their signature Olma sausages.  Thank goodness we didn't embarrass ourselves!

Of course, no Swiss meal would not be complete without chocolate and coffee.  So we walked a few blocks to the Chocolaterie for some rich, decadent Swiss hot chocolate and chocolate/espressos.

More beautiful Swiss architecture right above the cafe.

A Swiss premium 70% Cacao hot chocolate mit Rahm (whipped cream!)

Chococino mit Espresso.  Of course, both our drinks came with (more) chocolate!

Filled with sausage and chocolate, we visited the Abbey (Fürstabtei St. Gallen), a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Inside the Abbey, we explored the Stiftsbibliothek (Abbey Library), which is the oldest library collection in all of Switzerland.  The library houses many priceless books and manuscripts that were meticulously copied and illustrated by the monks during the Middle Ages.  We had to wear slippers before entering the library, and we were not allowed to take any pictures, so we don't have any to show our readers.  However, a quick google search will yield many beautiful images, and you won't be disappointed.

The Abbey!  (Yup, that's snow...cough, cough 80 degrees in Philadelphia.)

We then made our way to the twin-towered cathedral in the Abbey, which was also in the over the top baroque style.  The cathedral is slightly less ornate than the library (hard to believe) and is certainly an opulent place of worship.

Beautifully painted frescos.

Trying to capture the grandness of the cathedral.

Very extravagant confessionals.

This was followed by the more modest St. Laurenzen-Kirche, a much more subdued cathedral in a neo-Gothic style.

A view from the back.

Detailed walls with star-studded ceiling.

A view from the front.

Our cathedral viewing was now followed by exploring a bit more of St. Gallen just before we left for Thalwil.  We stumbled upon the Stadtlounge (City Lounge) just outside of Old Town in Bleicheli, the financial district of St. Gallen.  

So.  Much.  Red.

Believe it or not, this goes on for several city blocks.

Thanks for reading!

-Sir Cervelat